A new Manchester restaurant has captured the heart of a national food critic. She claims one dish will stick with her for life, calling it a “scorching performance.”
Manchester: A new restaurant called Stow has opened its doors. It’s only been a few months, but it’s already making waves.
Located on Bridge Street, Stow serves food cooked over fire. The place is run by the same team behind Trof, a popular spot in the Northern Quarter.
In her review for The Sunday Times, critic Charlotte Ivers shared her thoughts. She even said she’d think of one dish on her deathbed!
She described Stow as a place that gives a “scorching performance” in the food world. That’s high praise!
Stow opened in November, focusing on simple, great ingredients. They cook everything over an open fire, which adds a unique touch.
Whether you want a quick lunch or a cozy dinner, Stow has you covered. They use local produce and have a menu that changes regularly.
Charlotte compared Stow to top restaurants in New York and Beijing. She felt like she was at the center of the world when she walked in.
She praised the staff, saying they could make anything sound exciting. The atmosphere is intimate and almost theatrical.
One dish she loved was ricotta and honey with beetroot. The milk bread, though blackened, was sweet and delicious.
She also enjoyed the borlotti beans with sage, calling it a “Tuscan delight.” The free Campari soda on arrival was a nice touch too.
Charlotte tried a brined chicken in tarragon sauce, which she said had a French bitterness. The citrus-dressed veggies added a fresh kick.
But it was the long, crunchy ratte potatoes that really got her. She joked she’d think of them on her deathbed!
She finished with quince ice cream, noting that savory desserts are trending. Overall, she left Stow impressed by the food and the vibe.
The Stow team celebrated the glowing review on social media. They shared their excitement and thanked everyone for their support.
